And here we go, this is my first article on the Worroll & Sons project list. Reclaiming a section of my backyard — approximately 150' by 40' — from years of neglect, invasive vines and white pines, as well as neighbors illegally dumping their waste. While being a large undertaking, this project is entirely manageable. My biggest hang-up, however, was what to do with the pine trees. I'm tired of felling trees and bucking into firewood just to give away for free at the side of the street — much easier than hauling off to the transfer station.
Then it struck me: the split rail fence.
There’s something timeless and satisfying about building a split rail fence using nothing but the trees on your own land, or so I thought. It’s a method that dates back generations, especially in rural areas where resources were limited and self-sufficiency was key. Over the course of this series, I will walk through the steps I take to build my split rail fenceevery step: site planning, felling trees, preparing lumber, treating the wood, and putting the fence in the ground.
While White pine is never the recommended wood for building a split rail fence, I have several that need to come down and rather than cut fire wood again this year, I am planning to build a low-cost fence. White Pine is lightweight, easy to split, and simple to work with using basic tools. Harvesting white pine from your own property keeps material costs low and makes the project more sustainable. While white pine isn’t as naturally rot-resistant as cedar or locust, I will apply a treatment method and through regular maintenance will significantly extend its life. Its soft, straight grain makes it ideal for creating uniform rails, and its availability ensures I’ll have plenty of material for repairs down the road.
Split rail fences have a long and storied history, especially in North America. They were first widely used by early settlers in the 17th and 18th centuries, primarily because they required minimal tools, no nails or hardware, and could be built from readily available timber. Settlers clearing land for farming often had an abundance of trees, particularly hardwoods like chestnut, oak, and later, pine. Rather than letting the wood go to waste, they split the logs into rails and constructed fences to mark property lines, protect crops, and contain livestock.
The design of split rail fences made them highly adaptable. The traditional zigzag, or "worm" fence, didn’t require posts to be dug into the ground, making it ideal for rocky or heavily wooded terrain. In areas where soil was softer, upright post-and-rail styles became popular. Their simple, rustic construction symbolized the resourcefulness and independence of early American pioneers.
Today, split rail fences are cherished for their historic charm and practicality. They offer a timeless, handcrafted look that connects modern landscapes to America's pioneering past, serving both aesthetic and functional purposes on properties of all kinds.
Planning and preparing your fence line is a crucial first step to building a strong, lasting split rail fence. For me, I had to dig out the Deed to my property in order to start identifying what I actually own. Begin by walking the area and determining your exact boundary or enclosure needs — luckily for me, my property was once surveyed and I was able to find some of the markers while measuring with a 200' tape. Use flags, stakes, or anything to mark the outline for the proposed fence line, adjusting for any natural obstacles like rocks, trees, or uneven terrain. A split rail fence is ideal for areas where the land isn’t perfectly level, but it’s still important to follow the land’s natural contours smoothly.
Next, measure the total distance to estimate how many posts and rails you’ll need. Standard split rail sections are about 10 feet long. Plan for posts at each section joint and at corners, with additional posts for gates or changes in direction. Clear the path of brush, tall grass, and debris to make installation easier and safer.
Planning ahead ensures a faster, more organized build and helps avoid last-minute surprises. A well-prepared fence line sets the foundation for a sturdy, attractive fence that will stand strong for years.
Choosing the right trees to cut down for a split rail fence is essential for building a strong, attractive structure. Look for trees that are straight, with minimal curves or heavy branching low on the trunk. White pine is an excellent choice because of its straight grain and ease of splitting, but the same principles apply to other species. Aim for trees around 6 to 10 inches in diameter to cut as posts and 12 to 16 inches in diameter to cut into rails—large enough to produce sturdy materials without being too heavy to handle easily.
Inspect each tree carefully for signs of disease, rot, or insect damage, which can weaken the wood and shorten the life of your fence. Healthy trees will have solid, uniform bark and no large dead branches. It’s best to cut trees during the dormant season, from late fall through early spring, when the sap is down. This not only makes the wood easier to work with but also reduces the chances of rapid decay.
When planning your cuts, think sustainably: thin out crowded areas to promote the health of remaining trees. Felling the right trees sets the stage for easier splitting, longer-lasting rails, and a fence that holds up well over time while improving the overall health of your woodland. And for my section of land, I am removing all pine trees to promote the healthy growth of the deciduous trees.
Splitting rails can be done by hand or with power — I chose power. Rip cuts with my trusty 572XP is not only a faster alternative to traditional hand-splitting but is especially useful when working with a large number of white pine logs. Start by securing the log on a couple off-cuts as a stable surface to prevent movement. Most folks will recommend using a chalk line or straight edge to mark the center of the log lengthwise, but I just eye balled it. Begin at one end, and let the bar tip score a straight line down the length of the log. With your line scored, keep the saw steady and let the chain do the cutting — avoid forcing it.
After the first cut, you can split the halves again to create quarter rails, depending on the desired thickness. Make sure your chain is sharp and you are comfortable with the job at hand — if PPE is your thing, rock it; if not, I don't judge. Working with green (freshly cut) white pine is easier than dried wood, as it cuts smoother and resists splintering.
While chainsaw-split rails may not have the same rustic look as hand-split ones, they are highly functional, uniform, and much quicker to produce. This method saves a tremendous amount of time, especially for larger fencing projects, without sacrificing the strength and durability of the rails.
Removing the bark from your split rails is an important step to ensure the longevity and strength of your fence. Bark traps moisture against the wood, creating the perfect environment for rot, mold, and insects to take hold. By stripping the bark while the wood is still green, you allow the rails to dry more evenly and thoroughly, reducing the risk of decay. Bark can also hide small cracks or imperfections that could weaken the rail over time. Removing it early gives you a clear view of the wood’s condition and helps you catch problems before they become serious.
Shout-out to the Fiskars X7 hatchet — This tool far exceeded my expectations and especially for $35.
Additionally, a debarked rail is less attractive to pests like termites and carpenter ants, who often start by burrowing under the bark. Though it adds an extra step to the process, removing the bark greatly extends the lifespan of your fence, helping it remain sturdy, beautiful, and maintenance-free for many years.
Properly stacking and drying your split rails is crucial to building a durable fence. After splitting and removing the bark, stack the rails off the ground to prevent moisture absorption from the soil. Use wooden spacers or pallets underneath, and lay the rails in crisscrossed layers to allow maximum airflow between them. Good air circulation helps the wood dry evenly, reducing the risk of warping, cracking, or mold growth.
It’s best to stack the wood in a shaded, well-ventilated area to slow the drying process slightly, which helps prevent checking (splitting from drying too fast). Cover the top of the stack with a tarp or metal roofing, but leave the sides open to promote airflow. Depending on your climate, drying can take several weeks to a few months. Taking the time to properly dry your rails ensures they will be strong, lightweight, and ready to last for many seasons.
Step 5: Treating the Wood (Low-Cost Options)
Step 6: Setting Posts and Assembling the Fence